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^b. S"E-STE:Lv£ FOB CTJTTI1TG 



Pasques, Ulsters, Jackets, Gircular Gloaks, 



AND DOLMANS, 



1/ 



Invented by THEODORE THORP. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1882, by THEODORE THORP, in the-Office of the 
-Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 




. bCT 25 1882 " 



The public are hereby notified, that any infringement of this 

System will be promptly prosecuted in the 

United States Courts. 




F A. CAPWELL, PRINTER, ROCHESTER, N Y. 




A. s^tstied^: 



Cutting Ladies' Garments, 



inventp:d by 



THEODORE THORP. 



HIS SYSTEM CONSISTS OF INSTRUCTION AND 
MEASURE BOOKS, WAIST SCALES, SQUARE, 
SEVEN PATTERNS and SLEEVE MODEL. 



»«♦ 









m PRICE LIST : & 






ONE SYSTEM, without Instructions $1000 

with Complete Instructions, 20 00 

omitting Circular Cloak and Dolman, 15 00 



♦♦♦- 



->£=s=$ REMITTANCES £=e==3«- 

Should be made by Draft, Check, Post Office Money Order, or Registered Letter. 
Money sent in unregistered letters is at the sender's risk. In ordering, be particular in 
writing the name of Town, County and State, also sign your name in a plain hand. 

All communications should be addressed to 

THEODORE THORP, 

53 East Main Street, - - Rochester, N. Y. 






1? 



General Remarks. 



The principle of this system is drafting from actual measures, except the waist line, 
which is accomplished by a set of graduated scales. 

The instruction book has complete explanations for drafting, including diagrams for 
Waists, Basques, Ulsters, Circular Cloaks and Dolmans. 

The measure book has a printed list of the measures required for drafting. 

The square is an ordinary wooden one, measuring two feet by one, divided into inches. 

The waist scales are printed on stout oil board, representing a series of scales, and 
for use the sheet must be cut into strips, each bearing its separate number. 

By making a scale holder they can be kept together with less liability of loosing, 
and when drafting, the one desired can be selected in a moment by glancing at the figures 
on the end, which are numbered 20, 20^, 21, 21^ and so on. Thus the scale bearing 
the number 20 at the end is used in drafting for a waist of that size combining expediency 
and accuracy. 

The seven patterns are merely to trace the curves of the neck, armhole, back, side- 
body and skirts. 

In order to be successful, it is of the utmost importance that all measurements should 
be made correctly and while practicing the above the following rule would be an excellent 
guide in future operations. In fitting whatever alterations are necessary, immediately 
change the figures in the measure book to correspond; then draft a new pattern and the 
second dress should fit perfect. This advantage once obtained it will insure success and 
invariably guarantee regular customers. 

In taking measures there must be allowances made for the variety of goods used, for 
it is well known that different material requires more or less size for making up. 



/ 



Directions for Measurement. 



Tie a string around the waste and roll it down, which will indicate the natural length 
of the back. 

Mark with chalk at the back of the neck one half inch above the prominent neck bone, 
or any height preferred. Place the square under the arm, high as possible, then drop 
it about one half inch. 

[Have the square perfectly level], then draw a line on top of the square, in front and 
back of the arm, next cross the line in front even with the armhole seam. Then place 
the square on the back with the long arm, 1 evel with the line made at the back of the 
arm, and draw a line, crossing the centre seam ofthe back. 

[These dots should all be on a straight line. This is very important, if one is higher 
than the other the dress will not fit perfect.] 

1st.— Length of Back- in two measures. 

Place the tape line at the dot above the prominent neck bone and note the number of 
inches, on the line at the center ofthe back, where it meets the dot. 

[In drafting the actual number of inches makes line (C), then continue to the string for 
the length ofthe back, which makes line (D), or the waist line. 

2nd.— Size of the Bust— from the center ofthe front at the fullest part to the center 
ofthe back, very loose. Then add one inch more (which makes line E.) 

In measuring over a tight dress take the tape line and dress together at the front and 
pull it outwards as far as it will go. If it should measure 19^ mark it in the book 

2oy 2 . 

3rd.— Width of Back — by measuring from the center ofthe back to the shoulder 
nt, this should be tal en tight (which makes line G). Let the customer swing her arm 
[backward and forwards, then measure in the crease. 

If this measure is too broad, it will make the dress too long on the shoulder. 
4th.— Cross at the forepart ofthe arm in three measures : 

1st.— Place the tape line at the cross and measure under the arm to the dot at the cen- 
ter ofthe back, quite tight. 

(In drafting this measure dot on line C.) 

2nd.— Start from the same point and measure straight to the dot, at the back ofthe 
neck, very tight. 

(In drafting, this measure makes the heighth of the shoulder seam at the back and 
is obtained by placing the back at this dot. 

3rd.— Start from the same place and pass the tape line over the ball ofthe shoulder and 
measure to the dot at the center ofthe back, very tight. 

If these measures are taken too loose, it will cause fullness on the shoulder. 

This completes the shoulder seam in drafting and must fit with absolute certainty, 
and only unpardonable carelessness can lead to a failure. 

5th.— 'Waist— Measure very tight around the smallest part ofthe waist. The dress 
will make up one inch larger than the measure taken (which makes line D.) 

6th.— Neck— Measure from the dot at the back ofthe neck to the centre ofthe front, 
very tight. 



[4] 

7th.— Top of Dart- Measure from dot at back of the neck down to the fullest part of 
the bust, or whatever place desired. 

Sth.— Length of Waist in Front— Measure from the dot at the back of the neck 
over the fullest part of the bust to the natural waist. 

9th.— Arm hole -Obtain this measure by passing the tape around the sleeve head 
with the hand resting on the hip. 

This is merely a proof measure and not of great importance. 

lO.— Size of Hips— From the center of the front to the center of the back about 

four inches below the waist. 

After drafting apply this measure to the spaces on the pattern, omitting the darts. 

11th.— Length of Sleeve— By raising the arm in form of a square and measure 
from the center of the back to the elbow, and then down to the wrist, by deducting the previous 
measure of the back you have the actual length of sleeve required, Next measure around 
the elbow and the wrist. 

The diagrams contained in the book are drawn from patterns that were drafted from 
the following measures, and in practicing from these measures, the result should be an 
exact counterpart of the diagrams in every particular: 



f i- 



Length of back j 2—15^ 

Rust 20 y 2 

Width of back * 6% 

fi-ii^ 
Cross -< 2 — \\% 

I 3—1° 

Waist , 25 

Neck 6y 2 

Top of Dart 13 

Length of Waist in Front 19 

Hips 21 

fi-18 

C1 I 2 — 28 

Sleeve < „ 

3 — J 3 

U— 9 



[5] 



Diagram No. 1, Back for a Tight-fitting Basque. 




Use manilla paper 24 x 36. Place the square on the paper with the long arm towards 
you, and the short end about four inches from the top, then draw lines A and B. Dot 
on line A the first and second measure of the length of back (sec measure book). The 
first dot makes line C and the second, line D or waist line for the back and side-body. 

Extend lines D, B and C from line A, to the actual measure of the bust, and draw 
line E, from line B, 12 inches below line D. 

Dot on line D i 1 /^ inches from A and draw a line from this dot, to the point where 
A and B join, (this is line F or center of the back.) 

Dot on line C from line F the actual measurements required for width of the back, 
also the first cross measure, (refer to measure book) then place the long arm of the square, 
parallel with line B, with the short arm at the first dot made on line C, for width of back, 
and draw line G. Dot on line G 3^ inches from line B for the shoulder point, move the 
square to the second dot or cross and draw line H, this finishes all the lines except one, 
and are always the same to draft any garment, the changes that occur are the variations 
of measurements. Dot for the width of the back and side-body on line D by placing the 
cross on the waist scale, at line F and dot at No. 3. For the space between the back and 
side-body, place the cross on dot 3 and dot from No. 2. For the side-body place the 
cross at dot 2 and dot from No. 7. 

Always use a scale with the number corresponding with the actual measure of the 
waist. 

To make the back wider dot at 3^ or 4, but the extra addition must be deducted 
from the side-body by dotting at 6 or 6*^. To make the back narrower, reverse the 
above by dotting at 2 or 2]/ 2 and add the extra to the side-body. 



[6] 

Place pattern No. I at the corner where lines F and B join, with the pattern even, 
with line F, then trace for the curve of the neck. (The pattern is a very good size for 
persons measuring from 36 to 40 bust, but for outside garments it should be a little 
broader.) Adjust the pattern and trace the shoulder seam from the neck to the dot on 
line G. Place the corner of the pattern at the shoulder point, then take pattern No. 2 
and join it to No. 1 and let the lower edge of No. 2 point towards the center of line C 
between lines G and H, then trace for the armhole and dot between the patterns and at 
the lower edge of No. 2, then trace from pattern No. 1 for the curve of the back, from 
the armhole to dot No. 3 at the waist; without altering the position at the top move the 
pattern forward to second dot No. 2 and trace for the back of the side-body. Next trace 
from pattern No. 2 for the front curve of the side-body from the armhole on line C to 
dot No. 7 on line D. 

Place pattern No. 3 at the waist line, with the center line on pattern, at the center of 
the back. (If pattern No. 3 is wider the corners should project equally at each side.) 
Dot for the lower corners and trace for the bottom, then move the pattern forward at the 
waist, even with line F and trace for the center of the back by extending line F to the 
bottom of the pattern, next move the pattern to dot No. 3, and trace for the opposite side. 

Trace the skirt for the side-body on the same principle as the skirt of the back. 
(Always use the same width for the bottom of the skirts, the patterns are sufficient in 
size, except for large bustles, in that case spring the skirt at the back of both back and 
side-body. If long skirts are necessary extend the lines on the same angle as drafted. 

The following explanations for the curves are indicated by the dotted lines in 
diagram No. 3. 

Curve line F from one inch below the the waist to line C, more or less as the person 
requires. Make the side-body a little longer at the armhole also take off a small gore on 
the side-body and back, extending to line C. Slim persons require more than stout ones. 
Place a sheet of paper underneath the pattern and trace the side-body and skirt including 
the waist line, then cut out the duplicate on the tracing and cut notches for the waist 
line on each side. Cut out the back and skirt directly on the lines and curves. Make 
the back ^ of an inch narrower at the armhole from line G (see diagram). The side- 
body projects about ^ of an inch beyond line G. 

Diagram No. 1 can be used with diagrams No. 2 and 8. 



[7] 



Diagram No. 2, Forepart of a Tight-fitting Basque. 




Place pattern No. 5 at the corner where lines E and B meet and dot for the neck on 
line E, then on line B at the nearest corresponding number of the bust (refer to the mea- 
sure book for the second cross measure), draw a line from the cross straight through the 
dot on line B to the lengTh required and dot at that place. 

Take the pattern of the back just drafted and place the corner (where lines F and B 
meet) at the dot just made. Place the curve straight with the line and stick a pin in the 
opposite corner, which will allow the back to work on a pivot. (See pattern No. 1 marked 
" pin " at the neck, also diagram No. 2 with the back in position.) Next take the 3rd 
cross measure and start from the cross and measure on line H 2 or 2 x / 2 inches. Hold 
the tape line at this place tight, then measure over the ball of shoulder to the center of 
the back, where lines C and F meet. Move the back forward or backward until the cor- 
rect measure is obtained at this point (see diagram No. 2.) Without moving the back, 
trace your shoulder seam for the front and dot at each corner. Trace from pattern No. 
6 for the armhole ; imitate the diagram as near as possible. Also trace for the neck. 
Then measure with the tape line accurately, commenciug at the corner of the back and 
dot at the size required. Then draw a straight line from this dot to line E one inch be- 
low line C. Curve the shoulder seam at the armhole as indicated by the dotted lines on 
diagram No 3. 

I'he armhole is generally correct in size, except a mistake has occurred in the three 
cross measure, and the armhole will always measure from one half to one inch less 
than the measures taken on the person. Take a correct measure of the armhole and draft 
a sleeve one inch larger. To increase the armhole cutotft underline C, but never change if 
possible. It is difficult to get a correct measure of a sleeve head on a person, as sleeves 
are frequently two inches lower than they ought to be, and this surplus cloth prevents 
securing a correct measure. If a sleeve is low under the arm, it is impossible to raise 
the hand very high without destroying the dress. 



[8] 

The shoulder seam of the forepart should be, when finished, about one half inch 
shorter than the back at the armhole. If it did not finish that way, cut some off. Place 
the tape line at the back of the neck, or at the dot made from the 2nd cross measure, 
and measure to the pin, then staight down to line E and dot at the length of the front 
for the waist line (refer to the measure book), and draw line I. This is a very hard mea- 
sure to obtain correct. If the waist line is too low, it will cause wrinkles to form diag- 
onally on the hips in front of the 3rd dart, also too much cloth at the center of the front 
above the waist line. If wrinkles appear as described raise the waist line on drafting or 
in fitting shorten the darts, until they disappear naturally. Do not stretch or pull the 
material. 

Next take the waist scale and place the cross at dot No. 7 made for the side-body 
and dot at No. 2 for the side seam. Then move the cross to this dot and dot at No. 
5 ; move the cross to this dot and dot at No. 2 ; move scale to this dot and dot at No. 5, 
but dot this last one on line I. 

Place the cross on line I at line E and dot at No. 2 for the spring of the front, move 
the cross to this dot and dot at No. 4. 

Then place No. 1 of the scale at the center of the space remaining ; next move the 
scale forward to make the first dart smaller than the second and dot at the cross and 
No. 2. 

By this method the bust and waist measures regulate the amount of cloth in all darts, 
and they must be changed, as small waist and large bust require large darts, 
and small bust and large waist the size reversed. Reverse the side-body with the waist 
line at dot No. 2 and the points together at the armhole. (Should the side-body project 
at the armhole trace the full length.) For large hips move the side-body forward one 
inch at the armhole without altering the position at the waist line, and then trace for the 
skirt. For the 3rd dart dot on the armhole 2 or 2^/ 2 inches from the side seam and draw 
straight line from the waist up. For the skirt trace from pattern No. 7. Place the long 
arm of square parallel with line I and draw aline from the center of each dart towards 
line C. Then measure from back of the neck, for the height of the first dart (see measure 
book.) Then draw the lines for the darts, making the second one a little higher, about 
% or y 2 inch. 

Persons desiring large bust, make the darts short from the waist line, but for Misses 
or slim persons make long darts. Dot on line E 9 inches for the skirt, then dot outside 
of line E V 2 an inch, draw a line from this point to the bottom of the side-seam. For 
the darts at the bottom dot at 4 inches, then 1 inch, then 2 inches, and 1 ^ for the last 
dart. Another way would be, extend the line on the center of the dart to the bottom 
and deduct the amount necessary. It is difficult to obtain this without fitting. 

To complete the front draw a line from one inch below line C on E to the No. 2 dot 
on line I, and from this point to the half inch outside of line E at the bottom. Dot diag- 
onally from the cross on the armhole for the sleeve. The under seam sews in at this 
place. 

Refer to diagram No. 3 and curve as indicated by the dotted lines for the darts, &c. 

Refer to the hip measure and prove it by measuring the spaces, including the back 
and side-body, omitting the first ajid second darts, but measure the width of the third 
twice. If too small or large correct the size at the side seam and 3rd dart. Place paper 
underneath the 2nd forepart and trace a duplicate. Cutout and notch for the waist line. 
Cut out the front, which completes the drafting. 

Seams are not allowed in any place. 

Person with a large waist and small bust must have small curves on the darts. 

Diagram No. 2 can be used with diagrams No. I, 4 and 5. 



[9] 



Diagram No. 3 




Curve all the places indicated by the dotted lines, imitate near as possible the side- 
body, where it extends beyond the original drafting. Experience will teach exactly the 
amount necessary to be taken out. 

If a person should be very hollow on the top of the shouder, curve a little on the 
forepart at the neck, curve the side seam of the fore part as indicated at the armhole, 
there should be no cloth deducted. % 



Directions for Cutting and Basting. 



Place the fore part on the lining with the front edge straight with the material, 
allowing a good width for laps and then trace accurately at the edges of the pattern also 
the darts and the waist line. 

In cutting the lining allow for all seams outside of the tracing with extra width on 
the 3rd dart, side seam and shoulder, and cut notches at the waist line, also at the 
armhole for the sleeve. 

In tracing for the back and side-body, be careful to have the grain of the lining in 
an exact line with the waist or line D. Cut out in the same manner allowing extra width 
on the shoulder and notch for the waist line on both sides of each. 

For the second fore part always place line D accurately with the cross thread of the 
goods. In placing the lining on the material have the waist line tracing even with the 
cross threads. 



[10] 



Instructions for Basting. 



In commencing, short stitches are absolutely necessary for a thorough education in 
artistic dress-making. Place the material and lining of the fore part smoothly on the 
lap-board and baste together at the waist line perfectly even, fasten the thread strong at 
each side of the darts, front and back. Baste the darts by commencing at the waist line 
fulling the lining slightly to the top of the darts and at the same time hold the outside 
material quite tight, from that point to the shoulder baste even. Baste the front and 
side seams in the same manner; the armhole and neck even but the shoulder seam, 
full the lining slightly. Below the waist baste the front and darts evenly. For the 3rd 
dart seam commence in the same manner, holding the lining straight and fulling the 
outside slightly four or five inches then even to the bottom. 2nd forepart, baste the 
waist lines of both in the same manner and fasten the thread so the outside material will 
not move up nor down. Commence at the waist line and full the lining slightly nearly 
to the armhole, but the armhole even. 

Side-body, baste the waist line; for the front seam full the lining slightly to the 
armhole; for the back edge full the lining half way up and finish even, then finish the 
skirt even to the bottom on both sides. 

In basting the laps fold the material % of an inch outside of the basting; the buttons 
and button holes should be directly on the tracing. This is very important. 

For the back, full the lining slightly, both sides six inches from the waist, then finish 
even including the skirt. The material on the shoulder full a trifle with the lining 
straight not stretched, neck and armhole even. 

In basting the parts together commence at the waist line for the darts and baste 
evenly to the top, then baste the darts below the waist even to the bottom of the skirt. 

The 2nd forepart, baste even from the waist to the armhole and the same way from 
the waist down. Center of the back, baste even from the waist up and down. In bast- 
ing the side-body to the back, fasten well at the waist line and hold the side body tight 
and full the back a trifle from the waist to the armhole; finish the skirt even. Baste the 
side seams together, even up and down. Shoulder seams, hold the front straight, 
commencing at the neck, and full the back slightly to the ball of the shoulder and then 
full the back all it will allow to the armhole. 

In fitting, whatever alterations are necessary for the skirt, equally divide the amount 
in all seams. Great care should be observed in stitching the seams accurately on the 
tracing. All seams should be opened, the edge neatly overcasted, with bias whalebone 
casings made of goods matching the lining and felled on by hand. There should be a 
broad inside belt securely fastened at each seam on all waists. 

In cutting velvet, or goods that ar^ figured or have a nap or pile, be careful to cut 
all the parts the same way of the goods, that is, with the nap running downward and 
figure or pile of velvet running upward or downward, whichever is preferred. Velvet 
with the pile running upwards, has a much nicer appearance than running in the oppo- 
site direction, In cutting striped or plaids for the back be sure they match and use 
special care that the side-body and side forms correspond- This can always be 
accomplished by moving the goods a little one way or the other. 



[11] 



Diagram No. 4, 




FIVE SEAM BACK FOR A TIGHT FITTING BASQUE. 



This is drafted the same as diagram No. I, with the following exceptions : 

Dot on the shoulder 3 inches from the neck for the seam extending to the waist. 

Place the cross of waist scale at line F and dot at No. 3, move it and dot at No. 3, 
dot at No. 2 for the space, and then at No. 4 for the side seam. 

Curve the back and the back seam of the side-body from pattern No. 1. For the 
front side seam use patteen No. 2. Draw a straight line from the first 3 at the waist to 
the 3 inches on the shoulder. 

The skirt for the first and second back, trace from pattern No. 3, making the width 
at the bottom from No. 5 to the back. The skirt of the side-body place pattern No. 4 
with the center line at the center of side body on line D. Then dot at the figure 5 for 
the width at the bottom, move the pattern and trace the sides. Draw all curves as indi- 
cated on diagram No. 4. 

Draft the forepart as represented on diagram No. 2 or any tight fitting forepart. 

Trace a duplicate pattern of the side body, first and second back, and be sure and 
have the waist lines on all. 

Then cut out the back whole, for drafting the shoulder seam of the forepart. 

In cutting allow for all seams outside of tracing. 



[12] 



Diagram No. 




BACK WITH SEAM EXTENDING TO THE SHOULDER AND SIDE-BODY 
COMBINED FOR A TIGHT-FITTING WAIST. 



Draft this in the same manner as diagram No, 4 with the following exceptions ; 
Draw line from dot 3 to the shoulder, and the line from No. 1 join the other at line C 
Trace the skirts from patterns No. 3 and 4. Curve as indicated in the diagram. 
Draft forepart from diagram No. 2 or any tight fitting front. 



[13 



Diagram No. 6, 




BACK AND FOREPART FOR A TIGHT FITTING BASQUE OR 

FRENCH BACK 



Dot on line D i^ inches for line F Dot at No. 7 of the waist scale for the curve 
of the back, and dot at No. 2 for the side seam of the forepart. Trace from pattern No. 
1 for curve of back, then reverse pattern No. 1 and curve the side seam of the forepart. 

For the skirt extend line F from pattern No. 3. For the curve from dot 7 trace 
from pattern No. 4. 

To finish the waist line of the forepart, dot at No. 7, then 2 for 3rd dart and 6 to the 
next dart. Next dot at No. 2 for the spring at the front, and at No. 3 to the next dart, 
then dot at the cross and No. 2 for space between the darts. 

Curve all lines as indicated. 

This forepart and back will not fit with any other diagram in the book. 



[14] 



DIAGRAM NO. 7 




This diagram represents diagram No, 2 in position to trace lining for a Polonaise or 
Princess. 

If the material will not cut to advantage or allow a small gore on the skirt make the 
second forepart in a separate piece. 

The following rule will overcome the perplexing difficulty of fullness in the front 
breadth, also those unsightly long dart seams so objectionable to many : 

After the lining has been traced, pin the darts together on the tracing, including the 
third dart, then lay the lining on a table with darts laying side ways, draw a straight line 
from the bottom of the darts on the tracing (allowing the chalk line to follow the tracing 
about 3 inches or so from the bottom), up to the top of the dart. Then baste on this 
line for all three darts. Take out the pins and baste on the outside material as usual. 

At the top of the darts there will be a little fullness in the lining, but stretch the 
outside material over it smooth as possible. 

In basting the darts together the outside material will run out about 6 inches below 
the waist, but continue basting the darts of lining to the bottom. In this manner the 3rd 
chut will be very short. 

This method gives a full bust and short darts below the waist, but a little extra work 
in basting. 



[15] 

DIAGRAM NO. 8. 




TIGHT FITTING FOREPART WITH ONE DART, SUITABLE FOR EITHER 
BASQUE, POLONAISE OR PRINCESS. 



For the side seam dot at No. 3, 5 for space, 3 for 3d dart, 6 for space, 2 for spring at 
the front and 5 for space. The cloth remaining is the correct size for the dart. 
All the other parts draft the same as diagram No. 2. 
Diagram No. 8 can be used with No. 1, 4 and 5. 



DIAGRAM NO. 9. 




HALF FITTING HOUSE SACQUE WITH ONE DART. 



Add to measures used in diagram No. 1, the following : 

y of an inch to the length of waist, which makes line D that much lower. Spring 



[16] 

line F one inch. Dot from the Waist scale at No. 4, 2 and 8 for the back and side-body. 
Continue on line D for the front, dot at 2 for the side seam, then 5, 2 and 7, then 2 at the 
front and 6. The cloth remaining is the size for the dart. 

Curve all seams as indicated, extend the line through the dart to the bottom of 
basque and deduct whatever seems necessary. 

To make it larger omit the dart. 



DIAGRAM NO. 10. 




TIGHT FITTING OUTSIDE GARMENT FOR AN ULSTER OR CLOAK. 



Length of Back 



Bust 

Width of Back 

Cross, i 

Cross, 2 11%. — I 

Cross, 3 1 6 — I 

Waist 25 —1 

Neek 6^— 

Top of Dart 13 ~ 

Length of Waist in Front 19 . . 

Hips 21 —1 

Spring line F 1% inches from line A. Make the back broader at the neck than 
pattern No. 1. Dot from the waist scales at the figures represented on the diagram, ex- 
cept one dart is preferred then dot at No. 7 in place of No. 5 in front of the 3rd dart. 
Omit line I and place all the darts on line D. 



inch 



The following measures are for a tight fitting basque, showing the additions neces 
sary to draft No. 10. 

/ stf- 

Ii5#- 

20^ 1 

6#- 

irX- 



7 

113/ 

1234 

26 

7 

13^ 



22 



[17] 



The diagram represents the skirt as 16 inches in length. Trace from patterns as 
usual and lengthen the lines with a rule on the same angle. 

For a garment of extra length take a measure about 20 inches below the waist and 
prove the pattern. 



DIAGRAM NO. 11 




ENGLISH WALKING COAT. 



This illustrates diagram No. 10 with double breast, rolling collar and coat skirt. 



[18] 



DIAGRAM NO. 12.-CL0AK. 




Draft the same as diagram No. io with the following alterations: — Spring line F 
only I inch, make the neck y^ inch broader than pattern No. I. Add ]/ 2 inch more to 
length of back, which lowers line D that much. Dot from waist scale at 5, 2, 8, 6 and 2, 
No. 8 answers for side seam of both. Spring outside of line E at the bottom 2 inches 
and draw a line from this point to the fullest part of the bust. This prevents the cloak 
from opening at the front. 

For a cloak that has a lining the 3rd dart may be shortened as represented in 
diagram No. 7. To omit the 3rd dart altogether, add to the front and increase the curve 
to both side seams from the waist down. 



[19] 



DIAGRAM NO. 13.-DOLMAN. 




Draft from No. 12 and cut out the back and armhole as indicated by the dotted 
lines. This makes a small armhole and fits much nicer than one that extends to the 
waist. If a large armhole is preferred, merely cut it lower. Make an inside belt to 
spring the back. 



£a>j 



DIAGRAM NO. 14.--D0LMAN SLEEVE. 






Mm 



vOc. 



to; 



^osi-tioH 




Add 2]/ 2 inches more to the bust measure of diagram No. 12. Draw lines A an 1 
B. Place a correct sleeve pattern with the back edge parallel with line A and the sleev 
head up to line B, then trace sleeve head and notch (see 1st position on diagram). Next 
move the sleeve forward until the inside edge is parallel with the notch, (see 2nd position; 
trace the length desired. 

For the under part of the dolman sleeve trace any size or shape preferred. (See 
diagram marked "under.") Place the shoulder seam of the back where lines A and B 
join, stick a pin through this corner (see diagram). Refer to the breast measure and 
measure the fore part on line C from line E to H. Place that number of inches at the 
sleeve notch and measure direct to the center of the back where lines C and F join, 
then move the back forward or backward until the full bust measure is obtained, then 
trace from the back the curve for the sleeve. Curve the back of the sleeve as indicated 
by the dotted lines. Notch at the waist line for a starting point to sew in. In sewing in 
the sleeve full considerablejon the shoulder. 

Place line A straight way of the material in cutting. The lower edge of the sleeve 
can readily be cut in any shape that fashion dictates. To obtain this bust measure on 
a person commence from the center of the front, over the arm, to center of back very 
loose, and add an inch. Also obtain the extreme length of Dolman in the back. 

For a mantle cut the back and sleeve together omitting the seam extending to the 
shoulder. 



[21] 



DIAGRAM NO. 15.-CIRCULAR CAPE. 




To obtain this make the following alterations from any diagram, this illustration was 
altered from No. 12. Dot above the shoulder point on line G \y 2 inches, draw a line 
from the neck direct through this dot towards line H. Deduct the same amount from 
the front that is added to the back and draw a line crossing the line from the back. 

Next trace a duplicate back including the addition and stick a pin through the 
corner of the back where the lines cross (see diagram). Then take the bust measure 
and move the back until the size desired is obtained. The dotted lines represent 
the back when finished. Trace for the neck and shoulders and extend the back on 
the same angle to the length required, also extend the front. Alter the back gore 
to increase or decrease the size at the bottom. 



[22] 

Use the bust measure as explained in diagram No. 14 for dolman sleeves 

To draft a pattern seperate for a circular, the following instructions will answer. 
Draw lines A, B, C, D, E, F, G, and H. Draft the shoulder of the back to obtain the 
front shoulder and neck. Spring the front 2 inches outside of line E, 9 inches below 
line D. Alter the shoulder as explained. In basting, full the back over the shoulder 
ball. Allow extra width for lap. Curve the shoulder as No. 16 indicates by the 
dotted lines. 



SLEEVE MODEL. 



Draft a si eve head one inch larger than the correct size o{ the pattern. If a 
pattern should measure 16 inches, draft a sleeve head 17 inches, and in sewing in full 
a trifle all the way round with considerable on the shoulder. If the measures were 
obtained from the instructions in the fore part of this book, piace the number of 
inches corresponding with width of back at dot No. 1, and dot for the elbow through 
the hole nearest to the number required and continue in the same manner for the 
wrist. 

This method is correct and preferable to the one explained on the model, that is 
intended for persons cutting by other systems. 

Sleeves cut on a bias are a great improvement on those cut straight, they fit 
better and give a rounder effect to the arm. It is essential in cutting bias to have it 
exactly so, or it will draw, or not hang nicely. For slim arms pad the uppers. 

In basting hold the outside material loose with the lining tight, crosswise not 

lengthwise. In basting the upper and under together at the elbow distribute the 

fullness evenly for an inch or so. The under seam sews in at the notch of the fore 
part. No seams alUnved on any diagram in the book. 



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HORP'S New York System of Dress Cutting. 



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HORP'S New York Sleeve Model. 



HORP'S New York Combination Braid Trimmin 



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